Basic Indoors Portraiture Lighting Equipment

[TouchLight]

Hello Everybody,

I'm new here, and I am interested in Indoor Portraiture hence I have some questions on what I should get for Basic Lighting:

>> What I want: Single continuous lighting/light source;
> can I use one single medium size Softbox to do this?
> or are umbrellas (if yes, what size?)
more suitable and yield better results?

>> What I want: I like something portable;
> what brand is reliable for a portable lights?
> how many WATTS should I get?

>> What I'm considering: backlighting;
> do I get a snoot, or is there something else?

Will greatly appreciate any advice from anyone, thanks in advance.

:confused1:

[TouchLight]

Is there ANYBODY here at all???
Or is this website closed?

[joanne]

Hello Everybody,

I'm new here, and I am interested in Indoor Portraiture hence I have some questions on what I should get for Basic Lighting:

>> What I want: Single continuous lighting/light source;
> can I use one single medium size Softbox to do this?
> or are umbrellas (if yes, what size?)
more suitable and yield better results?

>> What I want: I like something portable;
> what brand is reliable for a portable lights?
> how many WATTS should I get?

>> What I'm considering: backlighting;
> do I get a snoot, or is there something else?

Will greatly appreciate any advice from anyone, thanks in advance.

:confused1:

Hello TouchLight, can you call stanley at 96383643 or come down to SLCC to talk to Stanley. I think is better for him to explain over the phone or talk to you personaly.

[student]

I am by no means an authority on this, but I do have a little experience. So here goes!

Hello Everybody,

I'm new here, and I am interested in Indoor Portraiture hence I have some questions on what I should get for Basic Lighting:

Well I also do some indoor portraiture!

Tourchlight]> What I want: Single continuous lighting/light source;
> can I use one single medium size Softbox to do this?
> or are umbrellas (if yes, what size?)
more suitable and yield better results?

I also use continuous light exclusively. I do not use strobes.

I will not want to use a soft box for this, because it will likely burn! Unless you are using "cold lights", which are usually not very "powerful".

I use umbrellas. Different sizes.

There is no such thing as which yield better results. Any light can be used to produce great results. A lot depends on what you wish to achieve.

What I want: I like something portable;
> what brand is reliable for a portable lights?
> how many WATTS should I get?


If you are thinking of "portable lights", meaning to bring the continuous light to say, the esplanade, I can think of only the Dedolights. I do not have such portable continuous lights. But Dedo do have battery packs. And these are EXPENSIVE! But they are still not very powerful!

I use anything from 1000 to 3000 watts for indoor use, when I have access to a power course.. Now that is hot! And therefore I do not use a soft box. There are heat proof materials, but I have not yet succeeded in getting them.

Regarding how much power you need. Let me say that for my purpose, with an ISO of about 250, at f5/6, and using 1000 to 2000 watts, I often need to have a shutter speed of not faster than 1/30 second.

What I'm considering: backlighting;
> do I get a snoot, or is there something else?



I will not suggest a snoot because it will likelly melt!

[Stanley]

Hello Everybody,

I'm new here, and I am interested in Indoor Portraiture hence I have some questions on what I should get for Basic Lighting:

>> What I want: Single continuous lighting/light source;
> can I use one single medium size Softbox to do this?
> or are umbrellas (if yes, what size?)
more suitable and yield better results?

>> What I want: I like something portable;
> what brand is reliable for a portable lights?
> how many WATTS should I get?

>> What I'm considering: backlighting;
> do I get a snoot, or is there something else?

Will greatly appreciate any advice from anyone, thanks in advance.

:confused1:

Well said by student, but for Touchlight member, the way you asking is very difficult for us to tell you. Because continuous lighting is very very HOT!!! And is dangerous if over 1000W! You must learn from the basic studio lighting first than you will know why i said this. Check www.multiblitz.de you can see the 1000W continuous lighting are so small and user friendly! Is call Pro X. You can shoot it at F5.6, shuttle 1/60 at ISO 400 If i'm not wrong!

[TouchLight]

Well said by student, but for Touchlight member, the way you asking is very difficult for us to tell you. Because continuous lighting is very very HOT!!! And is dangerous if over 1000W! You must learn from the basic studio lighting first than you will know why i said this. Check www.multiblitz.de you can see the 1000W continuous lighting are so small and user friendly! Is call Pro X. You can shoot it at F5.6, shuttle 1/60 at ISO 400 If i'm not wrong!

Hi Stanley,

Yes I have made some enquiries here and there, and I agree and decided that continous light is not the way to go. However, as I am NEW to studio shooting, I've decided on a basic single or double heads with the necessary stands and softboxes, umbrella and some reflectors, and will also try using wireless flash as I have a few flash units.

I would love to attend classes, but my work does not permit fixed evening classes, hence my endeavour to pick this up on my own with of course, expert advises from anyone willing to guide apart from books.

Really appreciate your pointers Stanley, and when my schedule permits, I'd immediately contact you.

:)

[joanne]

Hi Stanley,

Yes I have made some enquiries here and there, and I agree and decided that continous light is not the way to go. However, as I am NEW to studio shooting, I've decided on a basic single or double heads with the necessary stands and softboxes, umbrella and some reflectors, and will also try using wireless flash as I have a few flash units.

I would love to attend classes, but my work does not permit fixed evening classes, hence my endeavour to pick this up on my own with of course, expert advises from anyone willing to guide apart from books.

Really appreciate your pointers Stanley, and when my schedule permits, I'd immediately contact you.

:)

No problem with you are NEW to studio shooting TouchLight. The reason we want you to call Stanley is because our English is too "powderful" liao (in another word is not very good!), that's way we hope you can give him a call. But you still can call Stanley anytime if you have any problem.

Anyway thank's to student for answering your question!

[TouchLight]

No problem with you are NEW to studio shooting TouchLight. The reason we want you to call Stanley is because our English is too "powderful" liao (in another word is not very good!), that's way we hope you can give him a call. But you still can call Stanley anytime if you have any problem.

Anyway thank's to student for answering your question!

Oh yes, and thanks very much to Student, for a very detailed briefing on lighting. (!) :)

Joanne, not quite sure what you meant by your English is too "powderful"? I find your written English understandable. Anyway, thanks are due you too for leading Stanley to my rescue. I'm really inexpereinced in Studio Lighting or Studio Photography.

:)

[EFG]

Ouch, use of continuous lights on model would generate lots'a heat - esp watts exceeding 1k or a multiply of a few. The room better have a super cold a/c or the model will perspire. Then the make up would m...e...l...t... If still continue working for next 2hrs, it would end up wet and wild shots when the model is drenched with perspiration.... LOL

My novice approach is to substitute softboxes with translucent white paper. For any punch-line, punchure a hole in it for a snoot effect. :victory:

These are tricks for food shots and are some so called photog tricks...

Again, I am still at learning at basic stage, and far from the advance stage student had progressed to. :coolnod:

[student]

Ouch, use of continuous lights on model would generate lots'a heat - esp watts exceeding 1k or a multiply of a few. The room better have a super cold a/c or the model will perspire. Then the make up would m...e...l...t... If still continue working for next 2hrs, it would end up wet and wild shots when the model is drenched with perspiration.... LOL

My novice approach is to substitute softboxes with translucent white paper. For any punch-line, punchure a hole in it for a snoot effect. :victory:

These are tricks for food shots and are some so called photog tricks...

Again, I am still at learning at basic stage, and far from the advance stage student had progressed to. :coolnod:

I have a few comments to make on this issue of continuous lighting.

1 As I said earlier, I use anything from 1000 - 3000 watts. My so called studio is a VERY SMALL room with the lights often about 1-2 meters from the model. The room is airconditioned.

Tell you something interesting. Most of the time, the model asked for the airconditioning to be reduced!!

2 It can be very cheap to use continuous lighting, particularly if one is willing to use "cheap lights" and use your own "ingenuity". I have also found that some of my favorite images were made without using any softboxes, umbrellas, or light modifiers.

3 For most people, it would be preferable to use electronic flashes/strobes. But continuous light can give something which strobes cannot do. And for the timebeing, I prefer that.

[joanne]

Oh yes, and thanks very much to Student, for a very detailed briefing on lighting. (!) :)

Joanne, not quite sure what you meant by your English is too "powderful"? I find your written English understandable. Anyway, thanks are due you too for leading Stanley to my rescue. I'm really inexpereinced in Studio Lighting or Studio Photography.

:)

Maybe you do not know us well! Those who know us will know how good is our English! Simply English still ok ok la! But when we type we have spelling problem! Anyway thank you for your understanding! Please call Stanley at 96383643 when you need help! But...please after 12 pm! Thanks!

[EFG]

I have a few comments to make on this issue of continuous lighting.

1 As I said earlier, I use anything from 1000 - 3000 watts. My so called studio is a VERY SMALL room with the lights often about 1-2 meters from the model. The room is airconditioned.

Tell you something interesting. Most of the time, the model asked for the airconditioning to be reduced!!

2 It can be very cheap to use continuous lighting, particularly if one is willing to use "cheap lights" and use your own "ingenuity". I have also found that some of my favorite images were made without using any softboxes, umbrellas, or light modifiers.

3 For most people, it would be preferable to use electronic flashes/strobes. But continuous light can give something which strobes cannot do. And for the timebeing, I prefer that.

Hi Student

Thanks for sharing your insights on lighting. Perhaps my reference point was my experience with large studios with weak a/c due to unmatched BTU ratio. If working in a small a/c room, the room should run cooler as the thermostat could cut in faster.

I worked with strobes in studios and the models would end up perspiring sometimes. Hence, with continuous lights, it wont get any better on humans on those studios i work in.

Currently, I am exploring with halogen flood lights for makeshift shots. The WB would be skwed, but should not be a concern for digital shots. With film, tungsten balanced film and/or filters would be the way to counter WB.

Cheers

[student]

Hi Student

Thanks for sharing your insights on lighting. Perhaps my reference point was my experience with large studios with weak a/c due to unmatched BTU ratio. If working in a small a/c room, the room should run cooler as the thermostat could cut in faster.

I worked with strobes in studios and the models would end up perspiring sometimes. Hence, with continuous lights, it wont get any better on humans on those studios i work in.

Currently, I am exploring with halogen flood lights for makeshift shots. The WB would be skwed, but should not be a concern for digital shots. With film, tungsten balanced film and/or filters would be the way to counter WB.

Cheers

That is probably quite true! I have been to some studios and I actually sweated! And I was not even facing the lights!

There are other ways to reduce heat. One is a very small light so you can see what was going on. Then I place the lights, usually one, occassionally more, and take readings. Then I switch the lights off (leaving the small light) and compose the picture. When I am ready to take the photo, I switch on all the lights, take the photo, and then switch them off again. In this way, little heat is generated.

And I usually use a 4x5 camera in the "studio".